2018 Pouilly-Fume ‘Aubaine’, Jonathan Didier Pabiot
Certified organic and biodynamic (Demeter). From a limestone parcel near Tracy-sur-Loire, aged 18 months in concrete tanks.
“Diaphanous nose. Whether it’s the age or the terroir, this Sauvignon melts into Viognier-like peachiness, Chenin-like quince and something close to lanolin and wax, and Riesling-like in its lime-dipped-in-honey tension and sweetness. It is mellow but not loose. It is gracious but not affable. It builds but doesn’t amplify. There is bitterness, but it’s wrapped in the fine-ground wet-clay texture and so you feel it rather than tasting it. Long, insistent finish. Needs food, but what I would most like to try this with, for some reason, is oysters poached in Pernod cream.”