2018 Pouilly-Fume ‘Aubaine’ Jonathan Didier Pabiot
£33.00
Certified organic and biodynamic (Demeter). From a limestone parcel near Tracy-sur-Loire, aged 18 months in concrete tanks.
“Diaphanous nose. Whether it’s the age or the terroir, this Sauvignon melts into Viognier-like peachiness, Chenin-like quince and something close to lanolin and wax, and Riesling-like in its lime-dipped-in-honey tension and sweetness. It is mellow but not loose. It is gracious but not affable. It builds but doesn’t amplify. There is bitterness, but it’s wrapped in the fine-ground wet-clay texture and so you feel it rather than tasting it. Long, insistent finish. Needs food, but what I would most like to try this with, for some reason, is oysters poached in Pernod cream.”
17/20 Tamlin Currin for Jancis Robinson MW
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Product Description
Jonathan is the fifth generation of Pabiot’s to have toiled the soils of Pouilly. His grandfather, Lucien and father, Didier, were principally coopérateurs, but erected a modern cellar above the hamlet of Les Loges in 1990 and began to bottle their own wines. Jonathan himself was sent to the local college in Cosne-sur-Loire to learn viticulture but dropped out, fearing his lessons contained too much theory and too little practice. Instead, he headed to Faugères and did a stage at Domaine Léon Barral. He returned to Les Loges in 2006 and, with 2.5 hectares of vines granted to him by his father, and a further one hectare which he rented, Jonathan produced his first wine.
Aubaine (best translated as something to appreciate) is sourced from a single parcel on very poor soils in Tracy. It represents around 3,000 bottles and is aged for one year in a subterranean tank on its fine lees. Precise, refined and intensely mineral style, with the most delicate of citric fruit flavours, led by pink grapefruit. When a number of producers are focusing on later harvested and more fruit driven styles, Jonathan’s wines are almost crystalline in character and truly taste of the soil as well as the grape – Sauvignon Blanc.
Additional Information
| ABV | 13% |
|---|---|
| Bottle Size | Bottle 75cl |
| Colour | White |
| Country | France |
| Critic Score | 17/20 |
| Drink until | 2028 |
| Style | Still |
| Sweetness | Dry |
| Vintage | 2018 |
