2021 Pepe Raventós, Xarel-lo de la Vinya del Noguer Alt

100% Xarello, certified organic and farmed biodynamically. All vineyard work is done by hand with the help of some horses. From a single 1.48-ha vineyard on calcareous soils, planted in 1970. Spontaneous fermentation in amphora and ceramic vessels, unfined, unfiltered.

“Much deeper gold than the 2019, slightly less cloudy. Smells like lemon curd and primroses on rustic rye-flour bread. The occasional puff of cigar smoke. More intensity of fruit than the 2019 (tasted alongside), and the fruit tastes of nectarines, leans towards pineapple and kiwi, then red cherry. But still with that stinging sea-spray salinity. Through the glittering angles of acidity, the wine spins slow-circle into roundness. There is extraordinary tension between generosity and juice of fruit and the fierce drive of minerality. The finish is like licking Himalayan salt crystals and coarse-ground black pepper. It’s basically impossible to spit.”

18/20 Tamlyn Currin for Jancis Robinson MW

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