“The ’21 M3 release sees a price rise, which the makers clearly consider fitting for a wine celebrated as one of the best chardonnays in the country. It’s also an outstanding vintage. Quietly, it wields its magic. Its youthful exuberance is tightly wound, with whispers of green apple, grapefruit, lemon peel and almond, firming and rising through the wine. Acidity drives and energises the pristine fruit with oak a gentle accompaniment. Fine and elegant now. An outstanding future is writ large.”